Most popular is a single gap steel piston ring. Things that it does not like, high crank case pressure, low perched turbos, too much oil pressure. How many of these will blow out that seal? NONE!!! Next seal is the gapless ring. Run a piston ring with a labyrinth lock for the gap. Or you can stack 2 rings back to back then offset the two gaps. This is very popular in the Porsche cars. A lot of those cars run 6 bar of oil pressure, low turbos, and sump pumps. For a true seal, the best set-up is two gapless rings in separate grooves. Ok, back to the topic of the leaky turbocharger.īy the time you notice its leaking there is not much hope for a cheap rebuild. If your turbo has been fine for years and it starts to leak.
But, it shouldn’t touch the compressor housing. If you do, you are in the beginning stage of thrust bearing failure. That is when burn oil has cut up the steel on the turbine shaft. That makes the groove too big for the seals to keep the in the oil.
This is the most popular failure I see in the small frame turbochargers. Next you should check crank case pressure. A bad PCV system can make the turbo leak. Why can these two reasons make the turbo leak? Well, it’s as simple as blocking off the oil return line on the turbocharger. The return line is connected to the crank case. The piston blow by back tracks up the return line. And the seals are more designed to keep turbine and boost pressure out of the crank case. This post is getting a little long so I will make a part 2. It was leaking oil from the middle of the turbo between the two turbines, where the oill feed and oil return lones are.
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